Rainbow Boa Care Sheet
Rainbow Boa Care Sheet
Rainbow boa by Damien Farrell
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(Care sheets are extremely simplified, for more in depth information read the appropriate book from our book store)
General: Rainbow boas are so named because of the iridescent sheen imparted by ridges on their scales which refract light into rainbows. They can be found from Costa Rica through central South America in forests, woodlands, plains and swamps. They are nocturnal creatures, sleeping during the day and prowling at night. Rainbow boas sizes range from 4 to 7 feet in length and can live for 20 years in captivity.
Enclosures: The enclosure must be large enough to provide the snake with exercise and it must retain heat and humidity. Babies will be calmer in a small enclosure. For the first few months babies can be kept in plastic shoe boxes, one snake per box. Holes should be drilled in the sides for ventilation. Paper towels make a good substrate. There should be a water dish large enough for the snake to submerge itself, kept filled with clean water. Young snakes can be moved to a 10 gallon aquarium as they get larger. The size of the water dish should increase as the size of the snake increases, and hide boxes and additional water dishes can be added as cage furniture as well as a branch for the snake to climb. Remember the more furniture the more to clean on a regular basis.
Adults, on the other hand, like lots of space to roam, so bigger is better. Four to 6 square feet of floor space is the minimum recommended for adults. Plastic snake cages are recommended with a 36 inch model adequate for most adults and a 48 inch model for larger (> 5 feet) specimens. Glass aquariums are not recommended.
It is generally recommended that rainbow boas be housed individually except during breeding attempts. This is not a hard fast rule, as long as all snakes have been quarantined and are healthy they should be fine in communal housing.
Substrates: Substrates that have been used successfully with rainbow boas include newspaper, paper toweling, repti-bark (orchid bark), cyprus mulch, Astroturf and Never Cedar. Bark or mulch substrates can be misted to keep the humidity high. A humid-box containing damp sphagnum moss will usually be heavily utilized. A large tub of water with a hide box inside will usually be a popular spot too.
Temperature:Temperature preferences vary for different subspecies as they have adapted to different habitats, but all seem to do best when presented with a diurnal temperature cycle (especially if breeding is intended) and a temperature gradient. Brazilian rainbow boas do best with a night time low temperature of low to mid 70s and daytime high in the upper 80s, with an optimal ambient daytime temperature of 78 to 80F. Colombian rainbow boas like it warmer, with the night time low in high 70s to 80s and day time high of 90 and an optimal ambient daytime temperature of 83 to 85F. Some winter cooling may be necessary for successful breeding. Extended exposure to temperatures over 90F can kill rainbow boas. It is best to start with a temperature gradient centering around 80F (range of 75 to 85F), see where your animal spends most of its time and adjust accordingly. Heat can be provided from a combination of under-tank heat source (heating pad placed under ~one-third to one-half of the cage) and overhead incandescent light (wattage determined based on size of cage and room temperature).
Humidity: All rainbow boas are extremely sensitive to dehydration and maintenance of high relative humidity is a must. Cages should be misted several times a day and a humid shelter should be provided. The humid shelter can be in the form of a plastic box with a hole at one end containing moist sphagnum moss. Pools of water large enough for the animal to soak its entire body in should be provided on both the cooler and the warmer sides of the cage. Screen top cages are generally not recommended because they allow too much evaporation. If the cage has a screen lid it should be partially covered with Plexiglas or a damp towel to help retain humidity. A relative humidity of 75-80% is ideal. Much lower than 50% for extended periods and regurgitation and death by dehydration may result.
Water: As mentioned above rainbow boas are very sensitive to dehydration, so fresh drinking water must be available at all times along with larger, heated pools for soaking. A large tub placed in the warm end of the enclosure will help raise the relative humidity of the cage and provide a place to soak. Misting the entire cage several times a day will also help maintain required humidity. Snakes will drink out of any water source present in the cage, so soaking bowls need to be as clean as the “drinking water”. Rainbow boas seem to be resistant to “blister disease” and will spend most of their time in moist areas, but a dry area should also be present at both ends of the temperature spectrum.
Lighting: As nocturnal animals, rainbow boas probably do not need or benefit from full spectrum lighting, however it can bring out the iridescence of the snakes and can be used during the daytime. Incandescent lights can be used to help raise temperature, with white light being used during the day and red light at night. The red light will be lower wattage allowing the preferred drop in temperature at night. Red lighting at night has the added advantage of letting the animals movements be seen without disturbing its day/night cycle with bright light.
Feeding: Rainbow boas in captivity eat primarily mice and or small rats. Larger specimens may eat medium to large rats. The size of the prey item is determined by the girth of the snake, with the prey about the same size or slightly smaller than the widest portion of the snake. It is recommended that only dead food items be offered to prevent injury to the snake. Never leave live prey items with your snake they can cause serious injuries to your snake. Neonates and juveniles can be fed every week to 10 days, with sub-adults and adult fed every 10 days to two weeks. They are willing feeders and may become obese if allowed to overfeed.
Cleaning: Due to high humidity and temperatures ideal for the growth of mold and bacteria thrive in snake enclosures. It is therefore a good idea to thoroughly clean and disinfect your cage and cage furniture on a monthly basis, and always remove faeces as soon as it appears. Replace water at least twice a week.
